Due to broader economic concerns, many buyers noted a “quieter season” for the spring 2024 edition of Shanghai Fashion Week, which ended on Tuesday.
“The energy of Shanghai always stands out and the amount of newness every season — new designers, new stores, new ideas — but it was a little disheartening to hear from many showrooms that traffic is quieter this season and buyers are taking fewer risks,” said Jillian Xin, Labelhood buying director. “I think in this environment, it’s tough for new designers especially.”
As fashion boutiques recalibrate business strategies amid economic uncertainty, buyers maintain a “cautiously optimistic” outlook on the market, according to SND‘s Will Zhang.
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“I believe in the industry’s resilience and determination to innovate,” added Zhang.
For Lorenzo Hadar of the legendary Los Angeles fashion boutique H. Lorenzo, Shanghai’s robust trade show and showroom ecosystem remains attractive. “All in all, what I saw today at Shanghai Fashion Week was very dynamic,” Hadar said after visiting SFW’s official trade show Mode. “I hope this is a new beginning after a long hiatus.”
This season, labels such as Oude Waag, Xander Zhou and Shushu/Tong managed to attract buyers’ attention by putting out designs that offered lightness and opulence simultaneously.
“Designers are keen on offering a sense of refinement and luxury without unnecessary frills,” Zhang said.
“A fusion of streetwear and couture was smartly expressed via lightweight fabrics. Sharp shoulders, golden and silver hues, homage to archival design were also trending,” observed ENG founder Sherry Huang.
“With the market sobering up, the pursuit of ‘quality’ can be found in all design aspects,” added Huang. “Market environments are reshaping people’s consumption habits, lifestyles and values. It’s the survival of the fittest.”
Here, a roundup of buyers’ reactions.
Jillian Xin, Labelhood buying director
Favorite collections: Ya Yi. Her vision and voice is so unique in the market right now. The collection exudes romance, taking inspiration from bridal but infused with an irreverent attitude and confidence. The fabrications and craftsmanship are exquisite. Love it all.
Best show formats: Xander Zhou’s shows are always an immersive experience, transporting the audience to a dystopian reality, exploring themes in AI and sci-fi. Not merely a designer, he’s an adept storyteller and nowhere is this more visible than at his shows. Mark Gong’s show was also memorable, his nod to the daily grind of being a young office worker but injecting it with glamour and vivaciousness was playful and uplifting.
Top trends: Skirts are making a statement in spring 2024. There are two extremes: designers are still loving micro miniskirts but also floor-grazing long skirts, especially sheer ones are everywhere.
Lots of knot and tie details in collections from Samuel Gui Yang to Oude Waag, Ao Yes to Lamrons.
Must-have items: Mark Gong chain denim jeans, Oude Waag draped maxidress, Swaying bags, Shushu/Tong lace everything.
New talent: Chén Sifan. He brings a fresh point of view to menswear with a focus on embroidery and craftsmanship.
Impression of the week: The energy of Shanghai always stands out and the amount of newness every season — new designers, new stores, new ideas — but it was a little disheartening to hear from many showrooms that traffic is quieter this season and buyers are taking less risks. I think in this environment, it’s tough for new designers especially.
Budget up or down?: Still up, but not as much as before.
Will Zhang, founder of SND
Favorite collections: My favorite collection would have to be Oude Waag. The entire runway show left a lasting impression on me. The collection drew inspiration from the “Ama” divers and celebrated the spirit of independent and resilient women, as well as the powerful camaraderie among them. The design exuded a profound sense of unity and strength, capturing the essence of the female spirit and the bonds of each other. From the ethereal color palette to the fluid silhouettes, each piece seemed to embody the grace and power of the ocean and its incredible inhabitants. The way the collection effortlessly fused contemporary styles with traditional influences was truly remarkable, showcasing the designer’s unique ability to capture the essence of modern femininity in a distinct and captivating manner.
Best show formats: Louis Shengtao Chen’s runway show was a true highlight for me. The show’s immersive experience and seamless integration of interactive elements were particularly remarkable. What stood out was Louis Shengtao Chen’s deliberate effort to feature diverse body shapes and cultural influences, creating an inclusive and empowering atmosphere. The incorporation of cutting-edge technology alongside the graceful choreography of the show was both thrilling and emotionally stirring. The meticulous attention to detail and the seamless fusion of art, culture and fashion made this showcase an unforgettable and impactful experience.
Top trends: Normcore and quiet luxury are expected to become the go-to styles for the upcoming year. These trends cater to the desire for simple yet elegant clothing that exudes sophistication without being overly flashy. They offer a sense of refinement and luxury without unnecessary frills, making them perfect for everyday wear. As we look ahead, these trends will dominate the fashion scene, emphasizing the appeal of effortless and timeless fashion choices for a wide range of occasions.
Must-have item: The knitted T-shirt and the crochet long-sleeved top from Swaying’s collection were the talk of the town this season. The intricate craftsmanship and the play of textures have captured the essence of understated elegance, making these pieces essential additions to any fashion-forward individual’s wardrobe.
New talent: Fax Copy Express’ decision to debut its spring 2024 collection within the standard international ordering timeline is a significant move, showcasing the brand’s determination to enter the Western and Chinese markets. SND has been collaborating with the brand since its first season, we sincerely hope the brand gains more recognition among consumers in both the international and Chinese markets.
Impression of the week: The revived energy and enthusiasm seen during fashion week were unmistakable, reflecting the industry’s resilient spirit despite the challenges. The Louis Vuitton pop-up drew significant attention to luxury fashion. The debut of Ontimeshow as a fashion show venue was also noteworthy, by adding to the diversity of spaces available for designers to express their creative visions.
While the general sentiment was positive, it was apparent that showrooms and exhibitions experienced a slight reduction in foot traffic. This might indicate a broader trend within the fashion industry as businesses try to adapt to the ever-evolving economic landscape. Despite these matters, the atmosphere suggested a sense of cautious optimism, reflecting the industry’s resilience and determination to innovate.
Budget up or down?: Our budget will remain unchanged, primarily due to Chinese designer brands’ overall stability and consistent performance. This stability is reflected in various aspects, such as trends, styles and average customer spendings. Additionally, we will exercise flexibility in deciding whether restocking is necessary based on sales performance. Being agile and adaptable is a crucial advantage of Chinese brands and a significant factor in our decision to maintain the budget.
Eric Young, founder of LMDS
Favorite collections: Penultimate is pretty much the surprise I look forward to every season at every Shanghai Fashion Week. It’s never boring, it’s full of endless new inspirations.
Jacques Wei always made me dream a little with his Parisian salon atmosphere mixed with Shanghai modernity. Visually, the whole collection was beautiful. The presentation of the show was also of high quality, including the choice of models. You can see the designer was being very intentional in his creative process.
Samuel Gui Yang already released his collection ahead of Shanghai Fashion Week, but a mini capsule for Chinese New Year brought about a lot of new flavors. Samuel has always been one of the most consistent designers in Shanghai, which is rare.
Best show format: Xander Zhou’s collection made uniforms desirable again. The designer himself is a true character. Private Policy‘s American sportiness, youthfulness and sexiness was fully expressed in the collection. The collection was crisp and sharp.
Top trends: There were no clear original trends. It was clear that a lot of designers were obsessed with Miu Miu this season. Models don’t wear pants anymore. Following-up on Old Celine, designers are now obsessed with “the intellectual woman” concept from brands like The Row, but these local versions came with a localized price point.
Must-have items: Knitwear brands are getting better and better, both in terms of the quality of the yarn and their manufacturing capacity.
New talent: No particularly impressive newcomer came to mind.
Impression of the week: In the current retail environment, every designer is putting in a lot of hard work and they are showing a lot of perseverance.
Budget up or down?: LMDS is open to exploring all sorts of collaborative projects with brands, but budgets are flat this season.
Tran Thi Hoai Anh, Global Link founder
Favorite collections: Qiuhao and Judy Hua
Best show format: We did not see enough but from what we saw, we like Judy Hua the most; she tried to link fashion with contemporary art, inviting famous artists to collaborate with her for the runway show. It is one of the shows, which attracted the most high-quality clienteles, influencers, press people and artists.
Top trends: Jacquard silk, sheer silk, ruching details, sequins and embroidery.
Must-have items: Cargo pants, wide-leg and high-waisted pants.
New talent: Marco’senses from HCH Showroom, Yiya Silk from Lab showroom — stunning collection, top-quality material.
Impression of the week: The organizers of Shanghai Fashion Week are very professional, helping a lot of brands that try to extend their network here. All the showrooms were beautiful and very professional and had their own unique DNA.
Budget up or down?: Budget will be down per brand but number of brands will be increased.
Zhen Yi, Coink Concept buyer
Favorite collections: Xiamen-based jewelry brand AtelierSo has a good understanding of what is the right combo between quality and style. Their collaboration with Deepmoss showcased vintage appeal and resort sensibility, revealing the multitudes of the brand.
Best show formats: Oude Waag. I think they have found a distinctive style that balances wearability and artistry. The avant-garde-ness of the brand is presented in a very restrained fashion. It is a brand that feels powerful and not flat.
Top trends: For fashion accessories, we see less ornamental and youthful design. Instead, wearable items for the everyday have become more attractive.
Impression of the week: Brands have to be like an octopus, it need to have tentacles to help them adapt to a growingly complicated sales market, where livestreaming, direct-to-consumer channels, concept stores are equally important. Brands have to realize that taking part in a showroom every season to sell is not enough.
Budget up or down?: Budget remains the same. We are cautiously optimistic about the market.
Laura Darmon, buyer director and business development at ENG
Favorite collections: Xander Zhou, Shushu/Tong and Haizhen Wang.
Best show formats: With an incredible setup, casting and installation, Xander Zhou stays true to his DNA and takes it to the next level by incorporating storytelling about AI and humanoids fantasies.
Top trends: I didn’t think there was a specific dominant trend as there were various different design languages happening here. In general, I would say there was a maturity in the garment sensibility.
New talent: Songaadon, who just unveiled his second collection, is definitely a talent to keep an eye on.
Impression of the week: This Shanghai Fashion Week has been incredibly refreshing, with a lot more traction and exciting events unfolding. It’s not only captivating in terms of shows and presentations but also great when it comes to the showrooms offer.
Budget up or down?: With our Chengdu door opening very soon, our budget remains stable.
Mei Lin, head of merchandising at XC273
Favorite collections: Swaying’s knitwear. She began developing fine materials plus crochet details while using high-tech knitting to make summer knitwear more easygoing. The brand also began developing their homeware collection, which put crochet on vases.
Best show formats: Osmos did the only outdoors show during fashion week and it rained. We received umbrella and napkins before the show expecting the worst, but when the show started, the rain magically stopped. Watching 40 models with fluffy and curly hair stepping on the muddy grass looking relaxed, wearing a colorful collections, with a bit of Middle Eastern music on the background, simply felt exotic and magical.
Top trends: Elegant casualwear with wide-leg trousers and sequins.
Must-have item: Gimaguas’ swan top with lace detail. Clot x Luudan’s folding jeans and leather jacket.
Impression of the week: The showrooms are a bit quiet than before. But there are many foreign brands that are visiting Shanghai Fashion Week this year after three years. Many Chinese designers seem better at developing commercial identities now.
Budget up or down?: Down, the market was quiet than what we were expecting so we decided to play it safe.