For those who don’t have time to check out the Mark Rothko exhibition at the Louis Vuitton Foundation while in town, Di Du put her own interpretation of his work on the runway. Inspired by the late artist as well as the writings of one of her favorite authors, Edgar Allan Poe (who seems to be a fashion trend this season, what with Thom Browne’s show in New York), the Chinese designer’s willowy silhouettes were darkly moody, brooding with poetic tension on the runway.
In a palette of black, red and olive green, she built her silhouettes around slender knits and easy-to-wear jersey, contrasting fluffy textures with volumes of sheer, translucent organza. Mohair floor-length dresses had super-deep necklines and hinted at the gothic, but carried the promise of comfort, as well as style. Dual-layered miniskirts featured translucent trains to one side, combining fluidity with precision. Touches of red on black — side panels on a sharp-shouldered tailored vest, a slashed cross on the front of a dress, or a blurred stripe worked into the weave across the waist of a dark jacket — added to the sense of drama.
She draped and twisted her fabrics to create an abstract rose motif like a summary of her chosen theme. Fluffy scarf and hood details accentuated her silhouettes, adding a touch of grunge, while fake fur overcoats in murky green enhanced the mood. Even her white T-shirt dress, with its offset seams and nonchalant stance, summed up how, with her slender silhouettes that are sexy without being stereotyped, Di Du continues to affirm her distinct aesthetic, and her relevance.